The Alhambra in the hills of Granada

Sunday, October 31, 2010

Fall-ing for Spain

Just eating my lunch, sitting on the ruins of an ancient, Moorish palace

This halloween weekend I find myself at another puente in Spain. What's new? :) Instead of planning a long trip Adrienne and I decided to hop on the train and travel to a little city in the province of Málaga, Andalucía called Ronda. We heard it was a beautiful place and one of the largest "white villages" of southern Spain. After a train ride that seemed like the French pea pod scene out of a Veggie Tales movie, we arrived. As we left the train station it started to rain, so we ducked into a little cafe to make our plan of attack. We walked towards the beautiful views and found where we would spend the next six hours. It was breathtaking. The colors of the country side screamed autumn and the air was oh so fresh! I was so happy to be in another place and out of the city for a day. Our French-Canadian tour group from the train flagged us down for what we thought was to take a picture of them. Instead they wanted pictures with us! Adrienne and I were in tears we were laughing so hard. We had no idea that our train ride bonded us so closely with them.
Ronda has an extensive history with an amazing mixture of Roman and Moorish architecture. After the Moors took the Roman's place in the city, the Christians came and tore down much of the existing Islamic architecture. They built their churches over the remains leaving architectural proof of the mix of cultures in the south of Spain. You can look at a cathedral and see a minaret that was once part of the mosque that existed there, that now serves as the bell tower for the Catholic cathedral built from the original mosque structure. Although it is interesting to see so many influences of cultures and religion in one structure, there is quite a dark history behind the remains.
Puente Viejo
Adrienne and I ate our packed lunch over looking the painted countryside sitting a top the remains of an Moorish palace. After exploring the city we took a trail we found down to one of the most breathtaking sights I have seen in Spain. The sun peeked out just in time for me to take a picture :) It was a beautiful day in the month of October. I know if I was home right now I would be at the Avila Barn buying my pumpkins and honey or crafting my three Halloween costumes for the Isla Vista Halloween festivities. I am missing fall in California, but celebrating it Spanish style isn't too bad eh?

Since being in Spain I have found a great church in a barrio right outside of Granada. It's a family barrio with a large Muslim population. The church is an international church of about 50 people maximum. Christina and I have been going on Sunday evenings and enjoying worship in English and Spanish. After the messages there is a time for prayer where the floor is free to thank God for whatever is on your heart. I am almost in tears every time. Listening to honest words to Jesus in English, Spanish, and Arabic has been an experience and I am blessed to have found a Bible believing church here in Spain.
A couple weekends ago the church was distributing winter clothes to the Zaidin neighborhood to bless families that were in need. Christina and I took our Saturday morning to help organize winter clothes and help fasciliate the distribution. It was so encouraging to see this church investing in their community and blessing people in need. I was so blessed to be a part of it and hope to find more opportunities like this in my year here. I don't want to leave Spain without knowing that I have made a difference somehow. I want to invest in this city and although traveling and spanish are great things, I hope that God uses me for something greater here.

My address...in case you want to be pen pals while I am away :)
Kristen Vassaur
C/Damasqueros N.12 1Izquierda
18009 Granada
Granada, Spain

Friday, October 15, 2010

Is that Spanish or Arabic?

Demonstration for the strike. Yo Voy!
I have now been in school for three weeks, but have only had class for a grand total of eight days. Let me give you a run-down on how Spain works. 1st week of school: No class on Monday because of ceremonial purposes and no class on Thursday because of a workers strike. I am also trying to take on the Spanish mentality by arranging my schedule so that I don't have class on Friday's. 2nd week of school: I actually had class Monday-Thursday, but one of my professor's didn't show on Thursday because of the puente. A puente is a Spanish extended holiday. This past week there was a fiesta for el día nacional on Tuesday. From what I found online the holiday is similar to our Veterans day. Needless to say, if there is a holiday on Tuesday, Spain thinks that it's a prime opportunity to have a 4 day weekend. So, week 3: No class on Monday or Tuesday. I now find myself at the weekend once again. Thank you Spain :).

Now, I make it sound so easy and for the Spaniards I don't think it is too difficult, but I am having a hard time. I am taking 4 classes: The Social Reality of an Arab Woman, Contemporary History of the Arab World, Pre-hispanic Art History, and Museology. I have the same professor for the Arab classes and she is a sweet, dynamic lady, but speaks with an insanely thick Andalucían accent that I really struggle to understand. It doesn't help that she is reading about women's rights straight from the Koran and a quarter of the words she uses are Arabic. There are times when I honestly don't know if she is speaking Arabic or Spanish because of her accent. My other professors speak fast, but have powerpoints, so it is easier to follow along. I know my classes are interesting, I just wish I could understand everything! I feel like I am in over my head at the moment, but I know it will get easier. My favorite spanish phrase right now is "poco a poco," which means "little by little." This is my motto and I'm sticking with it.

Besides school starting I have began tutoring 5 kids and 1 adult in english. This sweet, missionary couple from Texas, living in Granada connected me with the job. I am so grateful to have a source of income while studying here for a year. I tutor 4 siblings (the 2 youngest for 1 hour and the 2 oldest for the following hour) on Monday and Tuesday nights and a mother and her daughter for another 2 hours on Tuesday also. The kids are adorable and the families are fantastic. It's a lot of work and quite exhausting, but I know it will be rewarding once I figure out what the heck I'm doing. The younger kids don't speak really any english, but the older kids have a much higher level. I enrolled in a certification class to be an official English tutor, so hopefully that will give me some direction. All in all I am so blessed to be a part of these kid's lives, to be around Spanish families and to have a little more insight into their culture.
Old friends and new friends

Last night was one of my favorite nights I have had in Granada. The first week I was here I bought a ticket to see Andrew Bird (an American musician) play at a theatre downtown. One of my new Spanish friends, Ana, bought a ticket too and went with some girlfriends and I. He put on an amazing show and had a talented Spanish, folk singer open for him. We were in the 2nd row and couldn't have had a better view. I had an amazing time and was so happy to see a theatre filled with the Spanish alternative crowd. It was so interesting to see all of these Spaniards in love with American gypsy, folk, rock. It was a great night with amazing music and beautiful people.
The musical/loop stylings of Andrew Bird and his opener, DePedro at the Teatro Caja Granada

Wednesday, October 6, 2010

Trains, buses, boats, and ferries



A happy heart
After finishing finals in our intensive language program, buying numerous bus tickets and booking a few hostels, 3 girlfriends and I took off to the southern coast of Portugal.  We had a smooth bus ride and landed in the land of Faro at 2AM.  We had no idea what Faro had to offer, but we knew we were 4 California girls that needed a beach A.S.A.P. We heard there was a bus that came every 20 minutes to take us to the nearest beach. After waiting for about a half hour Shannon and I decided to walk back to the hostel to ask if we were at the correct stop. About half way back we saw our bus coming, looked at each other and started sprinting in the other direction after the bus full of people. I am sure they thoroughly enjoyed the sight of two tourists sprinting after the bus, trying not to kill themselves on the cracked, cobble stone streets of Faro.

The beach was everything we hoped for, warm Atlantic water, sangria and sun.  Even better, Faro is not a tourist city and so the beach was filled with Portuguese friends and lovers. After returning to our hostel we decided to check out the nightlife and stumbled into a Portuguese karaoke bar. We were the only non-Portuguese in the place. People really tried hard to communicate with us, but there were only a few who spoke English and none that spoke Spanish. After listening to too many Portuguese drunken love songs, we decided we needed to spice up the party. Of course, Spice Girls, “Wanna Be” was our song of choice. We gave it all we had and definitely had the bar’s attention. Not sure if it was good or bad attention, but we got a couple pity claps at the end and decided it was a good time to leave.

The following day we took a train to a nearby port town, Olhão and then took a ferry to the island of Farol. We heard this was the island of shells, diving and snorkeling. The southern coast of Portugal has a few tiny islands surrounded by marshlands with various birds and unique nature. I enjoyed my alone time on this island and took a walk down the beach collecting shells for my room. We swam and watched the Portuguese lifeguards play paddle ball and work really hard at not doing their job.  We caught the Ferry back to Olhaõ at sunset and took the night train back to Faro.

The following morning we took the train (which by the way is extremely cheap in Portugal, cheaper than the bus) to our next stop, Lagos! Immediately we realized that Lagos was the place to be for everyone who was not Portuguese! We were determined to enjoy all that the city had to offer and find the real Lagos that lied beneath the Australians and Kiwis. We walked through the town, past the alien child statue in the town center, until we found our hostel, “The Stumble Inn.” We knocked 3 times (that’s what it said to do on the website) and a friendly, dread-lock man greeted us and showed us to our rooms. We walked 5 minutes to the nearest beach in cloudy weather, explored a little and found a cave that was swimmable. We didn’t have our suits so we did what the Portuguese would do and had a sweet lady watch our clothes while we dove into the warm water. We swam out for the cave and walked through only to find a boat full of tourists on the other side. I am sure they got more than they bargained for that day. We swam, explored and laughed the whole time.  Those memories are the ones that make me feel so blessed to be alive!

The daily grind in Portugal


Fernando, you will be missed.
The next day after finding our next hostel in the hills surrounding Lagos we made our way back into town to, of course, go to the beach. We were stopped by Portuguese men telling us to take their boat tour of the southern coast. We talked down the price and hopped in a little boat with our new friend, Fernando. He was the sweetest Portuguese teddy bear who had an image and a story for every rock formation we saw. Along the coast were ruins of an ancient Arab castle, an elephant, a yellow submarine, a wedding cake, and other creative things that Fernando has thought of in the past 30 years he has been giving tours. We took in all the Atlantic had to offer, the uniqueness of the small coves and rock formations. After we said goodbye to Fernando we walked along the bluffs until we found a perfect cove to enjoy a little game of paddle ball and what was left of the sun that day.

The sweetest thing in Portugal
We walked back into town as the sun was setting trying to find a Portuguese restaurant that Fernando recommended to us. We were lost and stopped in front of a men’s sports bar. Little, old Portuguese men started blabbing directions off in Portuguese, but not before another little, old Portuguese woman could get in on the action. Before I knew it, we had multiple recommendations and a Portuguese conversation going on. We had our dinner and started on the journey to the outskirts of town. On the way we spotted the sweetest lady in the window of her home. She looked radiant and when Adrienne asked to take a picture of her she nodded her head and posed. I almost had tears rolling down my cheeks and was ready to ask if she would be my grandma. She was by far my favorite memory from Portugal.

Our cove for a day

After numerous bus mishaps we arrived back in Granada at 3AM. Reality had set in and school was going to start on Tuesday. All of the nerves were back and my Portuguese vacation was over. I was excited to see what the "real life" would hold. Along with the Spaniards, the Portuguese have learned to love life. I realized that the majority of people were the happiest sitting in their boats, taking in the sun and not doing much of anything. I would venture to say the world would be a happier place if we all took time for sitting in the sun and naps on the beach.

Fernando and I sending our love through a conch shell in Portugal.